Gymkhana, London

42 Albemarle St,
Mayfair,
W1S 4JH

Hey, Foodwala’s… Welcome to another episode of the tales and tribulations of Alfie Foodwala

Today is a special tale of Alfie foodwala, as I am joined by Papa Foodwala in Mayfair, Papa Foodwala taught me all there is to know about the finer things in life.

Papa Foodwala used to have Saville Row bespoke suits sent to Glasgow when everyone else was still in C&A. and drove a Glacier white Jaguar while his compatriots drove Ford Cortina’s.

So this was very much a trip down memory Ally for Papa Foodwala.

Papa Foodwala was very much in charge of our tour and we started with breakfast in Dominique Ansel’s bakery in Belgravia, Papa Foodwala regaled me with his stories of arriving in London in the 70’s with so much excitement.

The sights and sounds of London used to motivate him.

Papa Foodwala did not only come to London for Saville Row, but he also came to London to see how he could improve his restaurants and stay in front of the competition, while his competitors looked at each other for inspiration, Papa Foodwala was cut from a different cloth and looked to London and New York for inspiration and was in first name terms with Terrence Conran.

All this reminiscing and walking around Knightsbridge and Mayfair got us famished and we decided to stop for lunch at the Michelin starred Gymkhana in Albermarle Street.

Gymkhana, Mayfair

We decided to go to Gymkhana as Papa Foodwala was the member of the original Gymkhana in Lahore and apparently, there is a 23-year waiting list for membership.

We walked in on a whim and without a reservation, Amanda the very charming hostess politely informed us that the restaurant was fully reserved today, however with some Foodwala charm and gentle persuasion Amanda found as a table.

For a fully booked Michelin star restaurant, the staff was very polite and friendly, definitely no snootiness.

Potato Chat, Chana Masala, Tamarind, Sev

We kicked off our Gymkhana lunch with deconstructed Potato Chat with Chana Masala, the chat was lovely and tangy with the homemade tamarind Jus giving a delicious sweet and sour note to the aloo chat and chana masala.

Kid Goat Methi Keema, Salli, Pao

The Bombay street food staple, Pao Keema was playfully changed with Kid Goat replacing a Lamb, the keema was delicious and earthy in flavour yet delicately spiced the Pao buns were buttery pillowy and perfect for scooping up the keema.

Dosa, Mysore Sabzi, Coconut Chutney

The garden vegetable mash filling of the paper thin dosa was very understated and gave a chance for the creamy coconut chutney to shine. The spicy Tomato chutney provided a juxtaposition between the mild and spicy elements.

Hariyali Bream, Tomato Kachumber

The succulent white meat of the Bream was expertly side kicked with the fresh mint and coriander coating and the acidity of the cherry tomato, lime and chilli kachumber helped elevate the elements of the fish.

Paneer Tikka, Cashew Nut, Corn Chat

The light artisan paneer was sandwiched by a spiced cashew paste and again the deep creamy flavour of the paneer was cut with the sweet fresh corn chat.

Kala Moti Pilau, Cashew Nut & Paneer

The Kabuli Channa and paneer biryani was intensely flavorsome yet delicately spiced, the biryani was not as good as DUM biryani in Soho but the accompanied Dall Tarka and dum alloo was delicious

King Prawn Moilee, saboodana and Narial milk

This dish was definitely WOW the succulent soft prawns were in a perfectly balanced coconut moilee shorba and was my highlight of the entire meal, I would just eat the jus with a spoon.

In Conclusion,

Gymkhana lived up to its billing as the best Indian restaurant in London, the food was simple yet complex.

The execution was flawless and the service was friendly without being overfamiliar and the waiting staff was knowledgeable.

As Papa Foodwala explained to me, the yardstick for how good Indian food in a restaurant should be is the term “Ghar Ke Jesa” (just like at home) the food should be like you receive at home, simple, flavorsome and without colouring and excess oil, Gymkhana epitomised this 100%

I preferred Gymkhana to Jamavar and Indian Accent and was way better than Kahani